Gentlemen,
The importance of shaving can be traced all the way back to the Pharaohs of Egypt where 
archeologist have discovered copper and gold razors in their tombs. The razors were placed in the Pharaoh’s tomb to make sure they would be well groomed in the afterlife (sometimes their barbers were also buried with them!). Shaving is one thing that all Gentlemen will have to address, either grow a beard or shave. The craft of straight razor shaving has changed very little in the last few centuries and quality barbers are continuing the tradition.
Master Barber Bertus of Schorem Haarsnijder En Barbier in Rotterdam, Netherlands is well versed in the craft of straight razor shaving and teamed up with Gentlemen’s Avenue to produce this article. The founders of Schorem, Bertus and Leen, are Master Barbers and each have 22 years of experience.
The shop in Rotterdam has a French art deco mirror case that is an absolute eye catcher and dates back to 1890 (image on left). According to Bertus, “We found it in an antique store in Belgium and fell in love right away; all hand crafted drawers, marble plates and a 100 year old mirror in perfect condition.” The mirror case was made for a barbershop in 1890 and found a home at Schorem. The mirror case is not only decorative but serves a function because it stores clients’ shavers.
Schorem not only offers world-class haircuts but also two types of straight razor shaves, “original” and “normal”. The original is done with a shaver that belongs to the client and can stored in the mirror case. The normal shave is done with replaceable blades or shavettes.
An essential tool for straight razor shaving is a double-sided strop that has a leather and canvas side. The leather side is used to sharpen the straight razor and the canvas side warms up the blade and removes microscopic imperfections. The strop is used before the shave begins and once during the shave.
The towels used by Schorem prepare the patron and skin for shaving and creates a memorable experience. The hot towels serve two functions: 1) soften the hair, 2) open the pores so the hair follicles will “swell” and stick out more. The hot towels are prepped in hot
water with a few drops of lavender to relax the patron. Preparing the skin starts with a hot towel followed by massaging some pre-shave into the beard. Hot lather is then applied with a badger brush and held in the right hand and the left hand is placed behind the barbers back to keep it dry. Another hot towel is applied to the patron with additional hot lather. Finally, the barber prepares to shave by adding talc to his hands.
To get the closest shave possible without damaging the skin requires a two-part process. The first shave is done with the 14-step method and each stroke follows the grain of the facial hair. Using the 14-step method allows the barber to remain on one point so both the patron and fellow barbers will always know where they are in the shave.
Once the 14 steps have been completed the face is re-lathered with a badger brush but now the shaving strokes are slightly against the grain. Schorem does not attempt a BBS (baby butt smooth) but comes as close as possible without causing trauma to the skin. The last hot towel is applied and a final check is performed before massaging after-shave balm into the skin. A cold towel is applied to close the pores, which causes the hair follicles to retreat into the skin, and to clean the face. The cold towels contain a few drops of mint to 
awaken the senses. The final step is to apply a little after-shave and talcum powder. The shave is now complete and the patron receives a quick shoulder and neck treatment with the Oster massager and a splash of aftershave on the neck. The tonics and aftershaves are kept in the freezer for that extra tingling feel.
A straight razor shave produces the best shave possible and gives you time to relax and enjoy something that Pharaohs, Roman Emperors and working class Gentlemen have prized. The methods used by Schorem may not be the same as your local barber but the key is to embrace the craft of straight razor shaving. Not all barbershops have a mirror case that is 123 years old but with proper training they can perform the craft of straight razor shaving and provide customers with quality grooming services and continue a barbering tradition.
Photos of Schorem courtesy of Jelle Mollema
Master Barber Bertus, Schorem Haarsnijder En Barbier Rotterdam, Netherlands www.facebook.com/Schorem www.SchoremBarbier.nl
Mr. M
www.facebook.com/Gentlemens.Ave
LYRMBGB!
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we have not only continued to write about Style, Grooming & Life but we also turned men’s publications right side up. We just celebrated our 1 year anniversary of The Avenue Men’s Magazine that contains no BS, no FLUFF!
Barbier from Rotterdam, Netherlands to barber legend and pomade pioneer Donnie Hawley to Reb Kennedy founder of Wild Records. We also enjoy writing about events, people and companies from all over the world.
